This story originally appeared in “The Look” section of the Nominations/SAG/Golden Globes issue of TheWrap magazine.
Jan Sewell thought she was getting a gig to transform her friend Eddie Redmayne into Stephen Hawking for what would be the actor’s Oscar-winning turn in “The Theory of Everything.” But that film led her straight to a second film, “The Danish Girl,” which proved to be an education in the trans experience and the artists and people at its forefront, courtesy of director Tom Hooper.
“Eddie and Tom were very keen and responsible,” Sewell said of the process. “Eddie especially brought me everything I didn’t know, and opened my eyes to the trans movement.”
To create the important visuals for Redmayne’s character of Einar Wegener, who became one of the first recorded gender reassignments when he transitioned into Lili Elbe in the early 20th century, Sewell started with a passion Lili regarded almost as sacred: painting.
Einar had been an artist, though he largely stopped when he became Lili; his wife, Gerda Wegener, played by Alicia Vikander, was also an illustrator and painter who frequently used Lili as a subject. “Tom in particular said, ‘Look at the paintings,'” said Sewell. “So that’s where we got the color palette. Especially the red wig.”
Though Lili’s hair was actually closer to blonde, Gerda painted her with red hair. “The inspiration started there,” Sewell said, “and also the 1920s coloring and looks.”
About seven months before “The Danish Girl” began shooting, she added, “we did a test just with photographs with lots of different wigs, but he looked great in the dark one. He’s a handsome, beautiful man so it made sense to stick with his coloring and not fight it.”
Focus Features
Sewell also drew from several trans actors in the “Danish Girl” production who played supporting and background roles. “These supporting artists would sit with us in makeup truck, talk about their process,” she said. “We were keen to hear it. The whole process was enlightening.”
Most rewarding was guiding Redmayne on his journey through feminization. “A hyper-feminization tends to happen after people first transition,” she said. “And slowly they become more natural. Even when Eddie had to dress as Einar, we progressively feminized that too.”
"Spotlight" A contender for Best Picture, director and screenplay -- as well as the supporting acting categories.
Open Road Films
"The Martian" Ridley Scott may have his best shot at an Oscar with this sci-fi drama, which is also a contender for Best Picture. Matt Damon is in the hunt for Best Actor as well.
"The Revenant" Alejandro G. Inarritu's dark revenge tale is getting lots of awards traction, particularly for Leonardo DiCaprio's performance.
Twentieth Century Fox
"Brooklyn" Saoirse Ronan is a strong contender for Best Actress, and there's much love for John Crowley's old-fashioned period drama.
Fox Searchlight Pictures
"Straight Outta Compton" F. Gary Gray's biopic of the rap group N.W.A boasts some of the best reviews of the year, including raves for newcomer Jason Mitchell as Eazy-E.
Universal Pictures
"Mad Max: Fury Road" The National Board of Review winner for Best Picture is a long-shot outside of technical categories, but it could surprise in the picture, directing or actress categories.
"Suffragette" Carey Mulligan is in the hunt for Best Actress for her role in this historical drama about the battle for British women to get the vote.
Focus Features
"Inside Out" Pixar's hit could become the first animated movie to earn a Best Picture nod since 2011's "Toy Story 3."
Pixar Studios/Walt Disney Pictures
"The Danish Girl" Eddie Redmayne and Alicia Vikander are getting major buzz for their performances in a period drama with a topical transgender twist.
Focus Features
"Bridge of Spies" You can never count out Steven Spielberg, particularly when he reteams with star Tom Hanks. Look out for Mark Rylance in supporting actor race
Amblin Entertainment/Walt Disney Pictures
"Beasts of No Nation" Cary Joji Fukunaga's gritty drama about African child soldiers has drawn raves, but most overcome its limited theatrical release by Netflix.
Netflix
"Son of Saul" The Hungarian Holocaust drama is a frontrunner in the foreign-language film race but could also score nods in other categories.
Sony Pictures Classics
"The Hateful Eight" Quentin Tarantino's Western is getting the usual Oscar talk, particularly for his screenplay and supporting actress Jennifer Jason Leigh.
The Weinstein Company
"Concussion" Will Smith has won early acclaim for his performance as the doctor who discovered CTE, the brain injury experienced by so many former NFL players.
Columbia Pictures
"The Big Short" Adam McKay's fact-based comic drama boasts a starry cast and major topicality, boosting its awards profile.
Paramount Pictures
"Creed" Ryan Coogler's reboot of the "Rocky" franchise has drawn raves, and Sylvester Stallone's supporting turn as boxer-turned-coach could earn him a supporting actor nod.
"Star Wars: The Force Awakens" J.J. Abrams' top-secret blockbuster should dominate in technical categories but could pull off a surprise in Best Picture
Lucasfilm/Disney
"Trumbo" Jay Roach's biopic of the blacklisted Hollywood screenwriter is drawing attention for the performances of Bryan Cranston as well as Helen Mirren as gossip columnist Hedda Hopper.
Universal Pictures
"99 Homes" Michael Shannon and Andrew Garfield are generating talk for their performance in the Ramin Bahrani- directed drama.
Lionsgate
"Anomalisa" Charlie Kaufman's stop-motion animated film could pull off a surprise in the Animated Feature category.
Paramount Pictures
"Mr. Holmes" Ian McKellen is angling for his third Oscar nomination for playing an aging Sherlock Holmes in Bill Condon's movie.
Roadside Attractions
"45 Years" Veteran actress Charlotte Rampling could score her first nomination for playing half of a couple preparing for their 45th wedding anniversary.
Sundance Selects
"Grandma" As an acerbic woman helping her granddaughter as she faced an unplanned pregnancy, Lily Tomlin could score her first nomination since 1975's "Nashville."
Sony Pictures Classics
"Love & Mercy" Paul Dano and John Cusack have both won acclaim for playing the younger and older versions of troubled Beach Boys leader Brian Wilson.
Roadside Attractions
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From ”Spotlight“ and ”Joy“ to ”Inside Out“ and ”Grandma,“ TheWrap selects the key movies that are deep in the hunt for major nominations