This story originally appeared in “The Look” section of the Nominations/SAG/Golden Globes issue of TheWrap magazine.
Sandy Powell had never read anything by Patricia Highsmith when she picked up the author’s “Carol” while looking for something to read before boarding a train several years ago. “I thought I was going to get a thriller,” she said, surprised to find that the book was instead a semi-autobiographical tale of two women who fall in love in 1950s New York, originally published as “The Price of Salt” under a pseudonym.
“But after I read it, I said, ‘This has to be a film.’ I even thought at that time, ‘It should be a Todd Haynes film.'”
And now “Carol” is a Todd Haynes film, starring Cate Blanchett and Rooney Mara and featuring the costumes of three-time Oscar winner Powell, who also designed Haynes’ “Velvet Goldmine” and “Far From Heaven.” “He’s incredibly visual, and meticulous to the point of obsession, in a good way,” she said of the director, who provided the cast and crew with an extensive “look book” of the film’s visual style.
For Mara’s character, Therese, Powell said she looked for clothing that leaned to dark colors and wouldn’t have cost a lot of money. “She’s a shopgirl, probably recently out of art school — she dresses practically, for comfort, but with a touch of bohemian-ness. And then at the end of the film, when she gets a good job, I assumed that she spent her first wage packet on a new outfit.”
For Cate Blanchett‘s title character, Powell wanted the clothes to “place her in her world” of privilege. “But I also wanted to use a paler palette for her–she doesn’t ever wear black or anything too dark.
“And for the first time that Therese sees her in the department store, it was really important to me that Carol be wearing a pale fur coat, and not a brown fur coat. That was one of the few things that was definite to me from the start.”
Powell talked a lot with Blanchett about the look of the character during the seven months the two were working on “Cinderella,” and Blanchett credits those conversations with helping her understand the character.
“I don’t design clothes to put on bodies, I design clothes to make a character come to life,” said Powell. “The real designing happens with the actor. In an ideal world, it’s a collaboration.”
"Spotlight" A contender for Best Picture, director and screenplay -- as well as the supporting acting categories.
Open Road Films
"The Martian" Ridley Scott may have his best shot at an Oscar with this sci-fi drama, which is also a contender for Best Picture. Matt Damon is in the hunt for Best Actor as well.
"The Revenant" Alejandro G. Inarritu's dark revenge tale is getting lots of awards traction, particularly for Leonardo DiCaprio's performance.
Twentieth Century Fox
"Brooklyn" Saoirse Ronan is a strong contender for Best Actress, and there's much love for John Crowley's old-fashioned period drama.
Fox Searchlight Pictures
"Straight Outta Compton" F. Gary Gray's biopic of the rap group N.W.A boasts some of the best reviews of the year, including raves for newcomer Jason Mitchell as Eazy-E.
Universal Pictures
"Mad Max: Fury Road" The National Board of Review winner for Best Picture is a long-shot outside of technical categories, but it could surprise in the picture, directing or actress categories.
"Suffragette" Carey Mulligan is in the hunt for Best Actress for her role in this historical drama about the battle for British women to get the vote.
Focus Features
"Inside Out" Pixar's hit could become the first animated movie to earn a Best Picture nod since 2011's "Toy Story 3."
Pixar Studios/Walt Disney Pictures
"The Danish Girl" Eddie Redmayne and Alicia Vikander are getting major buzz for their performances in a period drama with a topical transgender twist.
Focus Features
"Bridge of Spies" You can never count out Steven Spielberg, particularly when he reteams with star Tom Hanks. Look out for Mark Rylance in supporting actor race
Amblin Entertainment/Walt Disney Pictures
"Beasts of No Nation" Cary Joji Fukunaga's gritty drama about African child soldiers has drawn raves, but most overcome its limited theatrical release by Netflix.
Netflix
"Son of Saul" The Hungarian Holocaust drama is a frontrunner in the foreign-language film race but could also score nods in other categories.
Sony Pictures Classics
"The Hateful Eight" Quentin Tarantino's Western is getting the usual Oscar talk, particularly for his screenplay and supporting actress Jennifer Jason Leigh.
The Weinstein Company
"Concussion" Will Smith has won early acclaim for his performance as the doctor who discovered CTE, the brain injury experienced by so many former NFL players.
Columbia Pictures
"The Big Short" Adam McKay's fact-based comic drama boasts a starry cast and major topicality, boosting its awards profile.
Paramount Pictures
"Creed" Ryan Coogler's reboot of the "Rocky" franchise has drawn raves, and Sylvester Stallone's supporting turn as boxer-turned-coach could earn him a supporting actor nod.
"Star Wars: The Force Awakens" J.J. Abrams' top-secret blockbuster should dominate in technical categories but could pull off a surprise in Best Picture
Lucasfilm/Disney
"Trumbo" Jay Roach's biopic of the blacklisted Hollywood screenwriter is drawing attention for the performances of Bryan Cranston as well as Helen Mirren as gossip columnist Hedda Hopper.
Universal Pictures
"99 Homes" Michael Shannon and Andrew Garfield are generating talk for their performance in the Ramin Bahrani- directed drama.
Lionsgate
"Anomalisa" Charlie Kaufman's stop-motion animated film could pull off a surprise in the Animated Feature category.
Paramount Pictures
"Mr. Holmes" Ian McKellen is angling for his third Oscar nomination for playing an aging Sherlock Holmes in Bill Condon's movie.
Roadside Attractions
"45 Years" Veteran actress Charlotte Rampling could score her first nomination for playing half of a couple preparing for their 45th wedding anniversary.
Sundance Selects
"Grandma" As an acerbic woman helping her granddaughter as she faced an unplanned pregnancy, Lily Tomlin could score her first nomination since 1975's "Nashville."
Sony Pictures Classics
"Love & Mercy" Paul Dano and John Cusack have both won acclaim for playing the younger and older versions of troubled Beach Boys leader Brian Wilson.
Roadside Attractions
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From ”Spotlight“ and ”Joy“ to ”Inside Out“ and ”Grandma,“ TheWrap selects the key movies that are deep in the hunt for major nominations